Beyond Ghost Wine: Uncovering the Terroir of Ghost Hill Cellars

Pinot Noir lovers, rejoice! We’ve uncovered a pearl in the Willamette Valley – Ghost Hill Cellars. Thanks to its prime location, this winery produces some of the best Pinot Noir wines. Our expert tasting panel sampled their standout offerings, praising the elegance and minerality of the intriguing ghost wine.

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Summary

If you don’t have time to read the whole story, the 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir shines as the top pick. This Oregon Pinot boasts vibrant cherry and raspberry notes, balanced tannins, and a silky mouthfeel. It’s the perfect representation of the region’s terroir, showcasing the unique Willakenzie soil of Savannah Ridge.

  • For white wine enthusiasts, the 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc is a must-try. This rare “ghost wine” offers a beautiful rose-gold color and crisp flavors of pear and citrus. It’s an excellent choice for summer sipping and food pairing versatility.
  • Ghost Hill Cellars’ vineyard location on Savannah Ridge could be the next big thing in wine. While not yet an official AVA, its distinct soil, southwest-facing slopes, and unique microclimate make it a promising area for exceptional Pinot Noir production.
  • Ghost Hill Cellars isn’t just about great wine – it’s steeped in history, too. The winery’s name comes from a local legend involving a murdered gold miner, adding an intriguing backstory to every bottle of what you could call “ghost wine.”

In this story, we’ll explore the vineyard’s potential as a future AVA and share tasting notes from wine experts.

Thanks to Ghost Hill Cellars, IFWTWA and Carl Giavanti Consulting, LLC, who provided the wine. While that did not affect our opinions, we wanted to make this disclosure.

close up of wine bottle with label depicting ghost miner on horse and text reading IFWTWA Tasting Panel - Ghost Hill Cellars
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Why Such a Great Place To Grow Wine Grapes?

“We’re in one of best places in the Willamette Valley [to grow wine grapes],” touts Cameron Bowers of Ghost Hill Cellars. “And I have some evidence to back that up—it’s not just me saying it.”

Ken Wright’s Expert Opinion

In the 1990s, when the family considered transitioning part of their cattle grazing land to viticulture, they invited neighbor Ken Wright of Ken Wright Cellars to evaluate the property. Wright, who later authored the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, spent almost half a day with the family.

“We walked the farm for about three hours while Ken was doing what Ken does: tasting the dirt and looking at the soil conditions,” smiles Cameron. At the end of the visit, cattle farmer and Cameron’s father-in-law Mike Bayliss asked, “So, Ken, what do you think? Can we grow Pinot Noir here?”

“He said, ‘You sure can. How much do you want for it?’ And he was dead serious too!” continues Cam. Wright’s expert endorsement provided strong validation for the site’s potential.

Prestigious Neighbors

Further evidence of the land’s quality came when Ken Wright and Tony Soter, who Wine Spectator called ‘One of the most respected winemakers in the business,’ lost no time in purchasing the wooded property right next door to Ghost Hill Cellars.

While watching the laborious land-clearing process, Cameron told Mike, “I guess we made a good decision—we’re obviously in good company with Ken Wright and Tony Soter around us.”

Tony confided to Cameron that after he and Ken finished planting, they stood on top of the hill looking over Ghost Hill vineyards. Tony said, “This is just a beautiful savannah— a beautiful savannah ridge.” The name stuck, and Ken trademarked it.

“He allows us to use the name,” says Cam, co-owner of Ghost Hill Cellars with his wife Bernadette Bayliss-Bowers and her father, Mike, who has spent his whole lifr on the farm.

The move into grape cultivation marked a significant shift for the family farm, which had previously focused on various agricultural pursuits, including dairy, wheat, hay and cattle ranching over its long history.

The decision to plant grapes in 1999 set the stage for what would eventually become Ghost Hill Cellars, established as a winery in 2006.

Cameron believes that Savannah Ridge, while not yet its own AVA, has the potential to become one in the future, further cementing its status as one of the best places in the Willamette Valley for growing wine grapes.

Elevating Terroir: Savannah Ridge AVA in the Making?

map
Yamhill-Carlton AVA map | Courtesy of yamhillcarlton.org

Three distinct characteristics of the area terroir make Savannah Ridge a candidate for its own AVA: the soil, the southwest-facing slopes and its position in a bowl between two mountain ranges that creates a unique microclimate.

1.) Savannah Ridge Soil

“What we have here in our little corner of the Willamette Valley that makes it ideal for pinot noir, obviously first and foremost, is the 100% Willakenzie soil throughout the ridge,” Cameron explains. The soil of 60 million-year-old Marine sediment, volcanic activity and glacial deposits is ideal for growing pinot noir but is quite rare. Willakenzie soil is the oldest of the three main soil types in the Willamette Valley and is typically associated with adding dark fruit notes and an earthy quality to the wine.

2.) Savannah Ridge Aspect

The ridge is almost perfectly southwest-facing and has an ideal orientation for grape wine plantings because of increased sun exposure and better drainage.

3.) Savannah Ridge Geographic Location

The Ghost Hill vineyard sits in a beautiful little bowl on Savannah Ridge. The Coastal Mountain Range can be seen to the west, and on the other side, expansive views of the Red Hills of Dundee can be seen. The little bowl creates a microclimate that allows grape harvesters to pick about two weeks earlier than others in the Willamette Valley.

While Savannah Ridge is an important geographical feature for viticulture in the area, it remains part of the larger Yamhill-Carlton AVA rather than its own distinct appellation.

There is no mention of a Savannah Ridge AVA petition on the TTB website’s list of pending AVA petitions, and the Federal Register notices do not include any information about a Savannah Ridge AVA proposal.

Still, Savannah Ridge is proudly mentioned on the back of the Ghost Hill wine bottle.

The Haunting of Ghost Hill: A Tale of Gold, Murder and Restless Spirits

landscape with spooky ground fog
Ghost Hill on the Savannah Ridge in Oregon | Courtesy photo

As twilight descends on the Willamette Valley, co-owner Bernadette Bayliss leans in. With a twinkle in her eye, she begins to share the captivating story behind the winery’s name. “The road that runs right in front of our tasting room was once a military road. It went from the northern border of Oregon to the southern border of the state.”

The Military Road: A Path to Fortune and Tragedy

In the bustling days of the 1850s, during the Oregon Gold Rush, gold prospectors traveled this very road on their way to Portland, eager to sell their treasures. One fateful night, a weary miner, his saddlebags heavy with hard-won gold, decided to camp on what is now known as Ghost Hill. Little did he know, someone had followed him from the gold fields with ill intentions.

A Ghostly Legacy Uncovered, A Ghost Wine Is Born

As darkness blanketed Ghost Hill, the unsuspecting miner made camp, believing himself safe. But in the shadows, a murderous figure lurked. With calculated precision, the killer crept into the camp, silencing the miner forever. Not content with mere theft, the murderer also slaughtered the miner’s horse, leaving both bodies to rot in the wilderness. Legend has it that his spirit still roams the hill, searching for his lost gold.

Bernadette’s voice softens as she recounts her grandfather’s memories.

“When my grandpa arrived here from Wisconsin in 1906 at just six years old, he could still see the rotting bones of the horse and the saddle down below the driveway at the foot of our tasting room.” She smiles fondly at the memory. “We always knew Ghost Hill would be the name for us.”

This poignant story adds character to their winery. It’s not just about the ghost or ghost wine; it’s about honoring history and creating something beautiful from it. The presence of the past lingers in the air at the lone tree that marks the prospector’s hilltop resting place.

Still, at Ghost Hill Cellars, it’s celebrated with laughter and fine wine—especially their unique offerings that some affectionately call ghost wine—making every visit an enchanting experience for all who come to taste their exceptional Pinot Noirs.

Red or White? Ghost Wine Tasting Notes

computer screen of Zoom call showing participants drinking ghost wine from Oregon. Looks like the opening of Brady Bunch!
IFWTWA wine panel on Zoom tasting | UNSTOPPABLE Stacey photo

IFWTWA and Carl of Carl Giavanti Consulting, LLC gathered 18 food, wine and travel writers to hear these captivating ghost wine stories and sample Ghost Hill Cellars’ 2023 Pinot Noir Blanc and the 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir. Here’s what the distinguished panel of writers had to say:

White: Pinot Noir Blanc, a Ghost Wine of Sorts

“We’re actually one of the first in the valley to make Pinot Noir Blanc,” says Cam. “When we transitioned from grape farmers to winemakers, we did not have a white wine, and of course, we had a lot of people in the tasting room asking for it.

“We talked to a friend of ours from Willakenzie Estate, a French winemaker there, and he suggested we do the Pinot Noir Blanc. We’ve been doing it ever since, and it’s become our bestselling wine, especially in the summer,” explains Cam.

Dave Nershi: “The first thing that struck me about the wine is this beautiful color, so I would call it a rose gold color. It’s got gold, but there’s a little pinkish tint to it, so rose gold, I think, is a good descriptor. Still, I’m also getting some stone fruit, maybe pear, some citrus and a little minerality. There’s some nice acidity as well, so I’m loving this. I see this would be a wonderful food wine and maybe even more flexible than the traditional Pino Noir.”

Janice Sakata-Schultze: “I agree with you, Dave. When I first saw this wine, I thought it was almost a Rosé because of the color. I enjoyed the fruit-forwardness of it. This paired really well with the turkey version of our Korean Burgers last night. The pear in those Burgers brought out a lot of this fruit flavor, so it does have a nice acidity to it, too.” Read more wine stories by my friend Janice.

Andy Harris: “I don’t drink too much white Pinot, so I’m really enjoying this. I think it’s a good aperitif wine in particular, fresh and bright, and very easy to drink, so I will have some more.”

“color, citrus, minerality … delectable”

Melanie Votaw: “I tried it earlier with a simple chicken and veggie stir fry, and I enjoyed the color and acidity and picked up the lemon. I felt like there was some citrus and maybe some peach that I really enjoyed.”

Robin Smith: “I taste the pear and lemon, and a little bit it’s a little bit tart for me. I am used to something a little sweeter, but I’m enjoying this, and I think it would pair well with seafood.”

Marianne Casey: “This Pinot is absolutely delicious. And so delectable, I’m including it in my next wine and cheese party. The Pinot Blanc has an interesting story.”

Red: Reserve Pinot Noir Tasting Notes

close up of wine bottle next to squash - label shows legend of murdered prospector making this a perfect ghost wine

“The 2021 is a really interesting vintage. It was very hot that year, so we had to do a lot of things in the vineyard to manage that. Making sure we watch the alcohol and the sugar content when we pick. It’s been two years in barrel, which is a lot of time, but there’s not a lot of new French oak. This is all about the Savannah Ridge Pinot fruit and what it did that year,” says Cam about the Estate wine.

Laura Danforth: “When I opened it and poured, the red cherry and raspberry fruit came through for me. Then, as it started to open up more, I got more of the baking spices notes: nutmeg, cinnamon. There’s definitely an earthiness to it as well. Almost like a little bit of a chalky note, which I like in Pinot Noir, and I think there’s a really nice intensity to it. Excellent wine!” Learn more about what Laura from Winetravelista.com has to say about Ghost Hill Cellars.

Theresa Nozick: “I think this is a perfect Oregon Pinot Noir. Thank you for not making it an alcoholic bomb. It’s beautiful; I had all the dark berries. I got some more red flowery stuff, baking spices, and a lot of salinity. I felt like there’s a ton of solidity from that Willakenzie soil, sour cherries, a Touch of vanilla and super-fine and elegant tannins.”

Stacey Wittig: “I agree with Terry that the tannins are well-balanced in this garnet-colored wine. I get the vibrant acidity and then detect a bit of sweetness at the end, which I think is Cola.”

“vibrant acidity, balanced tannins, dark cherry … you’ve hit success here”

Andy Harris: “I do like the fact that it’s a lighter style and, in terms of the tannins, not overly tannic. I think it will be very good with the tri-tip we’re about to have.”

David Greenberg: “I think it’s interesting that the last person to comment spoke of cherry and earthiness, which resonates with what my wife said. I’m reading from her notes. She tastes delightful peppery forest floor on the tip of the tongue and black pepper on the nose.”

Robin Dohrn-Simpson: “I am not getting the forest floor at all. I’m getting just very fruit forward. It’s very nice on the mouth; the feel is satiny or silky. I think it’s really very typical of Oregon. I want to call it delectable.”

Patricia Decker: “I poured mine a couple hours ago, and it’s fascinating how it evolved in the glass because when it first poured, it was really lighter. I got that forest floor note. Now it’s like a flower, blossoming, and more of the fruit and the other stuff is taking Center Stage. I think it’s a great food wine. The acidity is very vibrant, so I think it would pair well with fattier things. It has a minerality that must come from that soil.”

Joanne Bowen: “I love the lighter style Dave mentioned with the Noir. It’s more flexible than a regular Pinot Noir, and I agree this is more flexible than a regular Pinot Noir. I’m serving beef stroganoff and noodles and would enjoy it with any beef dish.”

Jo Clarke: “I’m hoarding some of it for later in the week when I have another piece of salmon. I get a little bit of chocolate and a little bit of tannin, but I like the tart raspberry I get and the cherry, a little pepper and definitely the salt. Read how my friend Jo Clarke pairs Halloween candy with wine!”

Scott Kendall: “We had chicken with mashed potatoes with some sour cream and cheese and green beans with a little bacon, and I thought they set each other off the heaviness with the bacon, butter, and the acidity of the wine.”

Linda Kissam: “I really like this wine. I got tart cherry, pomegranate, caramel, vanilla and a bit of pepper. It’s a great wine with a good mouth feel; it’s really great on the back of the tongue. I think you get set up with the nose of the wine just swirling. I like to share these kinds of wines with my friends who don’t like Pinos because they’re wimpy or flabby or not enough. I think this is more than enough. I think you’ve hit success here … good job!” Read Linda’s review of her Pinot Noir experience at Ghost Hill Cellars.

Ghost Hill Cellars Wrap Up

dark orange sun sets over the future Savannah Ridge AVA
Ghost Hill Cellars courtesy photo

As the sun sets over Ghost Hill Cellars, the enchanting story of this winery unfolds—a tale with history, passion and a touch of the supernatural. The Bayliss Bowers family has transformed their cattle grazing land into one of the premier wine-growing regions in the Willamette Valley.

The haunting legends surrounding Ghost Hill add an intriguing layer to the winery’s identity. From tales of a miner’s tragic fate to the whispers of his restless spirit, this place is steeped in rich narratives that resonate with visitors. As they sip exquisite wines, including their unique offerings affectionately dubbed ghost wine, guests are not just tasting exceptional Pinot Noir but partaking in a legacy that honors the land and its past.

With aspirations for Savannah Ridge to become its own AVA, Ghost Hill Cellars stands at the crossroads of tradition and innovation. As they continue to craft remarkable wines infused with the essence of their terroir, the future looks bright for this winery—where every bottle tells a story, and every glass is filled with a hint of ghostly charm.

Ghost Hill Cellars
9700 NE Oak Springs Farm Rd, Carlton, OR 97111

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You are welcome to come and taste for yourself | Photo courtesy of Ghost Hill Cellars
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Hi, I’m Stacey

UNSTOPPABLE Stacey Travel is a travel blog focused on immersive travel that highlights food, wine and the spirituality of place. You can count on me for accurate reports and insightful analysis as your trusted travel writer since 2008.

As the author of several spiritual and walking guides, I occasionally write about life as a Camino de Santiago pilgrim. See my Amazon author page here. You may review my credentials as a professional travel writer on LinkedIn.

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