After retirement rumors, groundings and 70 long years chugging around Malawi Lake, the Ilala ferry Malawi on Lake Malwai remains unsinkable. Learn why sailing aboard the historic MV Itala Malawi is on UNSTOPPABLE Stacey’s adventure bucket list.
Malawi Lake Steamship
It was 70 years ago that the MV Itala finally felt water beneath her bow. In 1951, the steamer launched at Monkey Bay into the clear, fish-filled waters of Lake Malawi in remote southeastern Africa. She’d been built in Scotland two years before, but it took that long to take her apart, transport her pieces by sail and rail, and then put her back together in Malawi. But more on that later.
Ever since her 60th birthday, rumors and announcements of her retirement flood the media. (OK, not exactly “flood,” but the word makes me smile while writing about the old ship.) Younger boats are sent to take her place, but yet MV Itala ferry continues to be the workhorse of Malawi Shipping Company that delivers people and freight to remote places along the great lake.
In 2008, BBC said about the Itala Malawi
Her future rests with the International Maritime Organisation, which is trying to phase out single-bottom boats like the Ilala for safety reasons.
In 1991 the US proposed a phase-out of single hull tank vessels to reduce oil spills. Although MV Itala ferry is not a tanker, she does carry diesel to fuel her steam engines. I’m not sure how the International Maritime Organization’s (IMO) endorsement of the phaseout of single-hull tankers by 2015 was thought to affect Itala Malawi, but be assured, the lady still floats.
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Historic MV Ilala Ferry on Lake Malawi
In early 2014, Malawi Shipping Company announced that a much younger ship would soon swap places on some of the runs made by the historic Ilala Ferry Malawi. The MV Ilala had run up and down the 350-mile-long / 560 km-long great lake for the previous six decades. The company was building the new ship in the same drydock where the MV Ilala was reconstructed—Monkey Bay on the south shore of Lake Malawi—at a cost of $8.5M.
The MV Chilembwe, named for freedom fighter John Chilembwe, was said to be twice as fast the older vessel at full tilt. The nimble youngster would carry 120 passengers and 20 metric tonnes of cargo once it launched in May.
Hardly a fair race compared to MV Ilala’s capacity of 365 passengers and 100 tonnes of cargo.
More Retirement Rumors for the Ilala Ferry Malawi
Later that year and five years after the BBC’s report, Ilala Ferry still sailed. But this time a local news agency, The Nyasa Times, announced that the old timer was to be replaced by MV Chambo, a new vessel from Mozambique. The young hopeful, MV Chilembwe, was still not out of dry dock.
Yet only four days later, Malawi Shipping Company announced that they would revive the MV Ilala Ferry. They reported that the steamer lost power in one of its two recently installed engines three miles from the Nkhata Bay port on her hop to Chizumulu and Likoma islands. The company assured the public that the technical malfunction did not put their passengers or cargo at risk in terms of safety.
Why Ilala Malawi is on UNSTOPPABLE Stacey's Adventure Bucket List?
MV Ilala Malawi is on my adventure bucket list because of several reasons. First, after all these rumors of retirement, I think you can call the old vessel “UNSTOPPABLE.” I’ve always been for the underdog, and i would be very disappointed if I sailed Lake Malawi and missed the chance to cruise UNSTOPPABLE MV Ilala.
Secondly, she reminds me a bit of myself. Besides, the UNSTOPPABLE moniker, I, too, can sometimes be underestimated. It’s probably the age thing. I’m nearing the age of 70 myself and am a little rough around the edges. However, look forward to many more years of travel.
Finally, I’ve been a fan of the movie, The African Queen, and even named it to my list of 8 Best Travel Movies. The MV Ilala reminds me of the boat that Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn sailed as they filmed the epic tale.
Of course they are not exactly alike, but you get the idea. I could read the book while I sail up Lake Malawi watching the ever-changing scenery go by. I’d be looking for crocodiles between turning the pages.
Reservations Required for Cabins on MV Ilala Malawi
Most recommend that you choose the Standard Cabin class, and I would be happy with that. There are five double cabins which share bathrooms. Although if the Owner’s cabin were available, I’d be tempted. It has a private bathroom, but don’t expect any of the accommodations to be like a cruise ship. Most report that it is more like taking an African bus.
Both Cabin and Upper Deck class passengers dine at Ilala’s restaurant, which may serve dishes like beef curry and peri-peri chicken. More simple food such as beans, rice and veggies can be had on the Economy Deck.
Although common in the travel industry, UNSTOPPABLE Stacey was not provided with accommodations, meals or other compensation for the purpose of review. While it has not influenced this review, the Arizona travel writer believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest.
In addition, this blog, UNSTOPPABLE Stacey Travel, contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, Stacey earns a commission at no extra cost to you. These commissions help reduce the costs of keeping this travel blog active.
Further, as an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thanks for reading.
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8 thoughts on “70 years on Lake Malawi: the Unsinkable Ilala Ferry”
Hi! We just got home from traveling to Likoma Island on the Ilala! I was searching online to see if there was anyone else who had written about it, and came across your blog. You should totally come to Malawi and give it a try! Let me know if you do, we’d love to have you here in Zomba. 🙂 You can check out what I wrote about our experience here: http://adventurologists.com/an-odyssey-on-malawis-famous-ilala
And I’m a Stacy too! 🙂
Thanks for sharing your experience on the Ilala, Stacy! Thanks for the invite to come to Zomba. Tell us more about Zomba with another comment, please!
Wen I was Young my father bought a painting of ilala and hung on wall inthe sitting room.
It’s still hanging there now 30 plus years… And will continue just as MV ilala continues floating on Lake Malawi
And apparently my daughter Stacey found it when she joined us on this earth. And am sure she will also write about it in future like you.
So sure that it will continue hanging 4 generations to come.
Thanks so much for sharing this interesting story about generations of your family being interested in Lake Malawi and the Ferry Ilala. I would be interested in reading your daughter’s story – maybe she would allow us to publish it on this travel blog. Blessings! Happy New Year!
It’s quite an adventure travelling through ILALA it’s really an amazing experience loved every minute !
Thanks for your comment, Kasambala! Glad to hear sailing on the Ilana ferry was an outstanding experience!
I am glad to hear about Ilala survival and unstoppable, I started my maritime career on it and sailed to become marine engineer. Although no longer a sailor but I gained my unstoppable and resilient attitude to work and solving problems, in other words soldering on from my experiences on Ilala. I would urge all to visit and sail on it you will never forget it. What an experience. Daniel
Thanks so much for sharing your personal experience with us, Daniel! May you continue to be unstoppable!